As an additional fact, this site informs us that the RAW pin easily accepts up to 12V, so we could skip the external voltage regulator and connect the display directly to the Pro Micro. If this option does not show up, please install the supporting drives and IDE addons as described here. ![]() Make sure to select the "Sparkfun Pro Micro" board as shown in the picture. Start the Arduino IDE and load the attached Analog_Clock_Box.ino file. That is why I have thrown in the diode as a minimal way of voltage reducer. The motor did not really move, but it smelled funny after some seconds. In my first try, I have connected my servo to 4 fresh AA batteries which added up around 7 V. The interpretation of these terms, however, heavily depends on the brand of SG90 you will buy. The diode is another overkill: Officially, the SG90 has a voltage range of 4.8.6 V, and it should "tolerate" a "somewhat" higher voltage "temporarily".However, adding a 50♟.100♟ capacitor here could stabilize the circuit, so it should be added. The electrolytic capacitor at the 3 pin header (which will host the servo motor) is a bit of an overkill as the servo is not driven directly by the Pro Micro nor does it have any load - it just rotates a simple flap.This is why the pictures show that the heatsink was cut a bit using a metal saw. The original heatsink caused some collision here. I bent the whole regulator with the heatsink by 90°. Do not forget the heatsink on the voltage regulator.It is best to place a small screw terminal here as shown in the pictures. Instead of the barrel jack shown in the diagram, these red and black lines must be connected to the battery pack.The slightly darker brown color in the diagram marks solder bridges.After soldering is finished, push the Pro Micro and the display into their headers.Add the cables as shown in the diagrams, then all the other elements as shown in the picture.This was an approach of a socket for the piezo buzzer which is skipped at a later stage as the housing became to big - please just do not add it). (Do not get confused by the 4 pin header marked with a red dotted arrow. Solder the 8 pin header to the front, all the other headers to the back as shown in the diagrams and in the first photo.Cut one 3 pin header, one 8 pin header and two 12 pin headers from the 40 pin female Dupont header rail.I propose the following sequence for soldering: Thus, the headers shown with the dotted blue lines are only meant for orientation. Consequently, the header for the display is only on the front side (and soldered on the back side) and the headers for the Pro Micro are on the back side (and soldered on the front side). ![]() The front side is the one which will accommodate the display. Please keep in mind that the view from front to back is mirrored this way. Mounting: you can fix the clock on vertical surfaces by means of a double adhesive tape or an aperture on the box underside.In the provided diagrams and pictures, the perfboard is always shown from front and back. The clock dial is printed on an obverse surface with an aperture for movement fastening ![]() The box-packing for kit shiping, turns into the case clock Packaged in the corrugated fiberboard box Clock kit includes an assembled standard quartz movement, hour, minute and second hands However, with polished quartz movement, displaying a minute, hour and second hand, you will never fail to know the precise time. Understated in color and design, this clock will blend swimmingly into any modern environment. Made from corrugated fiberboard, this revolutionary wall clock is light weight and extremely durable. KAK Magazine and International experts awarded the Clock Box as one of the top leading projects in Russian design. The clock dial is printed on an obverse surface with an aperture for movement fastening. The box-packing for kit shiping, turns to the case for clock. Clock kit includes an assembled standard quartz movement, hour, minute and second hands packaged in the corrugated fiberboard box.
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